Tools Required
- Circular saw
- Clamps
- Drill/driver
- Iron
- Miter saw
- Table saw
Products Required
- 1×2 board
- 2″ edge banding
- 3/4″ edge banding
- 3/4″ x 4′ x 8′ plywood
A headboard is a furniture piece that few of your houseguests will see; however, it is something that you ought to take pride in every time you stroll into your bedroom. They can become hopelessly complicated and cost a lot of money if you want to develop your own. I wished to come and counter this thinking up with a contemporary, minimalist headboard that looks slick and doesn’t cost a great deal of cash. This floating Headboard is a terrific job that you can be proud of, and it just uses one sheet of plywood and some edge banding.
How To Build A Floating Headboard
1. Rip Plywood Strips to Size
Use a table saw to cut 2 2-in strips for the cleats (Part B) and one 1-in. strip for the vertical struts (Part C). Rip a 16-in strip for the cubbies from the maple plywood. The rest of the plywood will be around 27 in for the main Headboard (Part A).
2. Crosscut Strips for the Vertical Struts
Crosscut one of the 2-in strips to 2 27-in. pieces for the vertical struts (Part C) and attach them to the back of the Headboard (Part A) using 1-1/4- in. building and construction screws.
3. Cut Angles for the Cleats
Rip a 45-degree angle into the other two strips and crosscut them to 88 in. to develop the French cleats (Part B). Attach among these to top of the back of the Headboard with the long side of the strip dealing without and the angled edge pointing towards the center of the Headboard (Part A). The other will be utilized later on as the wall cleat.
4. Rough Cut Cubby Pieces
From the 16-in. plywood board, utilize a circular saw and temporary fence to crosscut 4 17-in. pieces and 4 7-in. pieces.
5. Miter 45-Degree Angles into the Cubby Pieces
Cut an initial 45-degree angle into all of the rough-cut pieces. Procedure the width of the cubby boards and mark a line. Utilize a miter sled and table saw to crosscut the second 45-degree angle to make the long (Part D) and brief (Part E) cubby pieces.
6. Tape and Glue to Create the Cubby Sideboards
Tape the corners of the mitered boards together and check your angles. Glue the joints, close the assembly and tape the last mitered-angles together to complete the cubby side tables.
7. Crosscut Pieces for the Mounts
Use a miter or circular saw to crosscut the 1×2 board into four 14-in. pieces (Part F) and attach among them to the inside of the cubbies with pocket holes.
8. Secure the Side Tables to the Headboard
Screw the other cubby cleat (Part F) to the Headboard with 1-3/4- in. exposes on the end and base of the Headboard. Location the cubby on top of the Headboard and attach the cubby to the cleat from the bottom of the cubby. Screw the pocket-holed cleat to the to the Headboard from the within the cubby.
9. Edge Band the Plywood
Iron on the 2-in. maple edge banding to the Headboard and trim the excess with an utility knife. Then iron on the 3/4-in. maple banding to the side tables. You shouldn’t need to tidy up these edges, however take it slow so you do not have to go back and attempt to take it off.
10. Mount the Cleat to the Wall; Then Mount the Headboard
Screw the last 2-in. cleat (Part B) with pilot holes and 3 in. construction screws to the wall so that the bottom of the cleat is 47 in. from the floor (this measurement can change depending on the height of your bed and where you desire the side tables to sit). Set the drifting Headboard onto the cleat and take pleasure in!
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